Wednesday, November 26, 2008

After False Pass, Bob went ...


...to live with the seabirds in Buldir World. Actually I was with four other humans and our job was to collect data on 14 of the 32 species of breeding seabirds on the isolated western Aleutian island known as Buldir. We worked practically every day since, well, it was the most interesting thing to do there. The observations were scattered around the island so we were required to dawn boots and rain gear daily in the damp summer climate and make our way through the shoulder-high herbaceous layer, up valleys, through tundra covered saddles, across broad basins, along boulder laden beaches and up fern covered and block talus slopes. The different species we monitored nest in earthen hillside burrows, on cliff faces, open beaches and high tundra, or within the blocks and rocks of massive talus fields. We'd travel to their locations to count them, to track the stages in their breeding processes ("chronology" ie. the timing of egg lay date to hatch date to fledge date, and whether or not pairs are successful or not in producing fledglings), to map the burrows in existing plots to see how many persist and what changes are made from year to year, and later, see how many of them are occupied; to catch adults to see what prey they've collected to feed their young, to measure and weigh chicks to track growth rates, and to float eggs to determine the stage of embryo development. Also trapped fish as part of a colonization study and collected insects.

Above are two glaucous-winged gull chicks, 2-3 days old in their beach nest. As cute as they were, you can't sit around and watch. The adults are very defensive and their constant calls irritate, their group diving behavior confuses, and they will (and did) make contact with your head.




This is an adult Leaches storm-petrel just led out from it's burrow. Patrick has a solid hold in the bird for if it flies the chances are high that it will be killed. Storm-petrels feed at sea in the day but during breeding, which only occurs on land in the summer, they maintain a nocturnal life. It is their strategy for avoiding predation from gulls and falcons.




A wandering tattler.




Crested Auklets




A horned puffin. Like most birds, Puffins replace their feathers after the breeding season. Puffins also shed the outer mantle of their bill when the breeding season ends. Puffins are fairly heavy and their skeletons are surprisingly compressible. I held puffins a few times, to remove them from a net after we trapped it, and to apparently rescue them when they were lost in the thick vegetation tens of meters from the nearest take-off point (cliff top). We regularly found dead puffins and murres in the heavy vegetation, having starved because they were unable to get flight and find the ocean.




In August, we set up the mist nets at night and used a bright lamp to attract fork-tailed and Leaches storm-petrels. At night is when they return from their day-time oceanic foraging to bring the partially digested krill back to their developing chicks. It's been found that storm-petrels approach lights at night. Ships at sea often find that their decks are littered with stunned birds at first morning light. The yellow streak is a storm-petrel Kevin is attempting to draw into the net.





A peregrine, chief of the bird hunters on Buldir. Far less numerous then the gulls (the other bird hunter), it was a joy to watch these masters of flight soar, dive, and play. And thrilling to watch the occasional take.









A mixed flock of Least and Crested auklets. Flocking is at least partly, maybe mostly, a defensive behavior. Crested auklets especially give off a unique musky citrus odor. Motoring though flocks in our skiff the smell was strong, and we found it difficult to describe. Within weeks of this photograph, the Least auklets followed by the Crested auklets left Buldir, their chicks having fledged or perished, their responsibilities on land thus concluded for the year. Auklets spend the rest of the year in large groups in the waters north and south of the Aleutian chain. Buldir, unlike most other Aleutian Islands lacks a sea shelf, the waters deepening rapidly around the island. This allows several populations of seabirds to remain unusually close to land while still finding 'oceanic' prey.




A pair of least auklet adults socializing while their developing chicks mature amidst the rocks below them. The need to socialize must be important since by "hanging out" these birds are risking predation. They are constantly on the alert for gulls and falcons. They do have one inherent trait on their side: their small size makes them less attractive as a meal. From our observations, gulls have a distinct preference for the meatier Crested auklets.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

And Jen went...


...to Palmer, a small town about 45 minutes north of Anchorage. I went to intern on a newly developing organic farm called Spring Creek Farm, located in the Matanuska Valley. SCF was originally a dairy started by a woman in 1948. As other farmers failed in the valley she bought up their land eventually increasing the size of the farm to 700 acres. She placed her farm into a trust with Alaska Pacific University and when she passed away in 2001, the school gained ownership. There are many activities taking place on the farm. During the school season it is the satellite campus for APU's Master's of Outdoor Education. There is also numerous camps run for children year-round. The majority of the acreage is leased to a local hay farmer.
Last year a new project began--a small Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) program. A CSA consists of a community of individuals who pledge support to a farm operation so that the farmland becomes the community's farm, with the growers and consumers providing mutual support and sharing the risks and benefits of food production. The CSA concept originated in the 1960s in Switzerland and Japan, where consumers interested in safe food and farmers seeking stable markets for their crops joined together in economic partnerships. Today, CSA farms in the U.S., known as CSAs, currently number more than 400.
I was going to join on for SCF's second year of being a CSA. They increased there members from 7 the first year to about 30 this year. In addition there were numerous building projects-a harvest shed, composting toilet, children's garden and 4-season greenhouse.

The picture above is how most of the hay fields looked in early May, very water-logged.




The view from the Davis house, where I cooked and cleaned up. The center mountain is Pioneer Peak, the largest in the valley at 6500 ft.




Beginning the new raised beds for the garden's expansion. Bob was with me for the first week before he headed off for training with Fish and Wildlife. These first three pictures are from him.





My wall tent. Where I stayed for almost four months. It was really quite comfortable and Inde enjoyed it as well. We were situated at the back of the farm looking out towards the fields and Pioneer Peak.




Two of my favorites from the summer. Fresh rainbow chard and Mimi Rooney. Mimi is from Vermont and worked full-time at SCF as the farm assistant. We were inseparable.




Inde and Taz, otherwise known as "the girls". Of the 8-11 dogs on the farm these two were my favorites. Inde of course. Taz is Bud the hay farmer's dog and she liked to walk with Inde and I even though her and Inde never became that friendly. She did teach Inde a lot about hunting mice in the hay fields which eventually lead to Inde killing a ground squirrel in the wilderness...not good.




Watching crops grow in Alaska was really amazing. With all the sunlight, plants literally shot up overnight. Because of this fast growth you can grow many things, especially with greenhouses.




Because my internship was only part time I also got a job at the Musk Ox Farm. Only about a mile from SCF and with Musk Oxen! An ideal place to work! The MOF is a private non-profit organization dedicated to the development and domestication of the musk ox, Ovibos moschatus, for the purpose of providing additional subsistence income opportunities for Alaska’s native people. The soft under-wool of the musk ox, qiviut, is harvested once a year and delivered to Oomingmak, an Alaskan native knitter's co-operative. I gave tours of the farm, a brief history and a walk through the farm to see and learn about the animals. From time to time I was able to help more closely with animals.




Here are two of the bulls. Bulls can get up around 1000 pounds. Notice their large horns, these are used for head bashing during the dominance displays in the rut season. Musk Oxen look very similar to bison but they are actually most closely related to goats! The bull the front is heavily shedding his qiviut under layer. The farm will comb the animals to collect the majority when they shed it in the spring. Also it is gathered off the ground as it was traditionally by native people.





This is Safety. She was taken from her mother at birth b/c she was pretty sick and needed to be looked after closely. She did recover but mother musk oxen will quickly forget their young once separated. So Safety had to be bottle fed until she was reintroduced to the other weaning babies in late July. Her name comes from a theme that is selected every year by local school children. The theme for 2008 was stopping points on the Iditarod Trail. Safety is the name of one of the villages on the trail.







In the MOF gift shop with our fine qiviut products. This is Hannah. A Palmer local and at 16 she is not only the best tour guide ever, she's also a master knitter and helped me tremendously with my knitting skills.




My first sighting of Humpback whales in Prince William Sound. Michelle came up for a visit in late July. We went of a whale watching cruise and were rewarded with this mother and calf who breached over 20 times!





Raven Glacier. A beautiful hike just outside of Girdwood, AK.





Michelle and Inde hiking back down from the glacier.





The week before I left Alaska, Mimi and I hitch-hiked up to Denali National Park. It took us 6 rides and 7 hours to get the mere 150 miles. But the way back was easy. One lift took us from the park to our front door.





Looking down the river bed of the Teklanika. We spent most nights camping on the river beds. They provide level ground but more importantly good visibility, so that we could see the bears coming.





Crossing the tundra.





Bear sighting. We had a few of these. The bears are surprisingly disinterested in people. The Park does an amazing job of managing the wildlife and human impact. In order to camp in the back-country areas you must register, watch a safety video and use bear canisters for your food. For this reason bears do not really associate humans with food. There are only a set amount of people allowed to camp in all of the designated units. Which also means you are not likely to encounter any other campers.




Caribou! This was an amazing moment. Ten male caribou came down from the hillside where we had been watching them with a herd of about 25 or 30. They trotted right towards us, so close that we began to worry that perhaps they were feeling a bit aggressive. Turns out they were more curious. They approached to about 25 yards and then pranced around us in a circle. After about 10 minutes or so they headed back to there group. Mimi and I were speechless!





We were told it is only about 10 days in every summer that Denali (or Mt McKinley) is visible. This year there were even less as the season was a record-making cold and wet one. We felt extremely lucky to have spectacular views from our final night right through to this sunrise shot on the hike out.

Friday, May 9, 2008

The last days (part 2)

On our last walk up to the tundra we found a nice pocket out of the wind and were able to sit and watch the beautiful world around us. How lucky we feel to have had the chance to interact with this spot on earth.


Signs of Spring

Radish sprouts in the greenhouse

The 7th bear in two weeks! This is on the beach just north of the house, almost to Stonewall point.

Cleaning up the tools

Lipstick cladonia (my favorite lichen) flowering on Ikatan peninsula

Bob has to scare off another bear at the house. This one had disconnected our water line.

Final burn pile

Reconnecting the greenhouse drip irrigation

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

The last days

A pod of about 5 Orcas was swimming close to the house. We don't think we've seen this this pod because the largest female has a deformed dorsal fin.

We've been watching this nest, perched between Stonewall Place and Lonesome Inar's cabin. They began sitting on the nest around April 20th. The winds have been fierce this week and it is amazing to see how determined the eagles are in the reproductive efforts. About a mile north on the beach is another nest. Apparently the eagles have been nesting in that sight for 20 years or more!

Ahh, springtime arrives and the garden beds are revealed after the snow melt. The ground remains frozen but most of the inside of the greenhouse is planted.


Rhubarb leaves unravel.

Last Trip to Ikatan

About a week before we were due to leave the Aleutians we had a wonderfully clear day thrown into the mix of windy cold days we had been having. We knew that we had to take advantage! Both of us agreed that we wanted to head to Ikatan and re-explore the old village and then walk over to Otter Cove and the Pacific.


This tufted puffin was actually spotted on the ride home. The first of the year and according to records it was about a week or so early. No other puffins were in sight. We felt extremely lucky to have been able to see another one before we left.




Another Ancient murrellet. They have been in large groups in the pass for a few weeks now.



Pictures from the village.










The changing face of Sentinal Peak as the snow melts.